Kenya

A melting pot of experiences, Kenya is a place where the vibrant dance of progress mingles with the timeless rhythm of tradition. Here, the whirl of the city meets the hush of the wild, creating a unique blend that lures those seeking more than just a travel destination.

Nairobi, Kenya’s heart and soul, is a testament to the country’s dynamic spirit. The city’s skies, a blend of day’s blue canvas and night’s starry spectacle, watch over a mix of cultures and histories. The aroma of roasting maize and spiced chai fills the air, punctuated by the city’s buzz and momentum, a testament to the living, breathing narrative that Nairobi offers.

Move beyond the city, and Kenya presents a different facet of its charm. The Maasai Mara stretches out under the setting sun, the vast plains draped in a golden glow that gives life to elongated shadows. In Amboseli, the silent majesty of elephants stands against the backdrop of the towering Kilimanjaro, a scene that speaks volumes about the timeless cycle of life.

Further along the coast, Mombasa and Diani offer a soothing melody of lapping waves and warm, sandy beaches. These coastal havens are steeped in the ebb and flow of history, bearing witness to a mix of influences, from traders to colonizers, shaping the resilient and rich Swahili culture.

Kenya is a beckoning hand, an open invitation for those in search of more than just a journey. It’s an experience that leaves a lasting imprint, a place where your story, filled with exploration and connection, finds resonance amidst the backdrop of Africa’s vast expanses.

I. The Basics

Cost of Living

Kenya offers an affordable cost of living, particularly when contrasted with many Western countries. That said, costs can fluctuate based on lifestyle, specific location, and personal needs.

• Housing: Depending on location, housing costs vary. A one-bedroom apartment in the city center of Nairobi may cost between 30,000 to 50,000 KSH ($275-$460) per month. Moving to the outskirts, the cost decreases to about 15,000-30,000 KSH ($140-$275).
• Food: For a single person, basic monthly groceries typically range from 4,000 to 6,000 KSH ($35-$55). Dining out at local restaurants is an affordable delight, with a meal cost ranging from 500 to 2,000 KSH ($5-$18).
• Transportation: A monthly pass for public transportation, which includes buses and matatus (local minibuses), comes to around 3,000 to 5,000 KSH ($25-$45). Taxis and rideshare services like Uber are available at a reasonable price.
• Utilities: Basic monthly utilities, encompassing electricity, heating, cooling, water, and garbage for an average apartment, will cost between 2,500 to 5,000 KSH ($20-$45).
• Internet: High-speed internet, indispensable in the digital age, will cost around 3,000 to 5,500 KSH ($25-$50) per month for a speed of 60 Mbps or more.

Connectivity and Infrastructure

For those keen on staying connected, Kenya won’t disappoint. Nairobi, the country’s vibrant capital, is an emerging tech hub, often referred to as the ‘Silicon Savannah’. High-speed internet is available in cities, with WiFi hotspots sprouting in public spaces like cafes and restaurants.

Over the last decade, Kenya’s infrastructure has seen significant strides. Roads in and around cities and major towns have improved, making travel smoother and more efficient. Public transport options are plentiful and varied, from buses and matatus to taxi services like Uber, all offering a taste of local life.

Healthcare

Healthcare facilities in Kenya are a mix of contrasts. On one hand, you have top-notch private healthcare facilities, particularly in Nairobi, offering excellent services. However, these can be quite expensive, making health insurance a prudent choice for expats and long-term visitors.

On the other hand, public healthcare facilities, though more affordable, might not match up in terms of resources and service quality. It’s also recommended to get vaccinated for diseases like Typhoid, Hepatitis A and B, Yellow Fever, and consider Malaria prophylaxis before embarking on your Kenyan journey.

Safety

Safety, an essential aspect of any travel decision, can vary across different regions in Kenya. Cities like Nairobi and Mombasa, while teeming with life and experiences, also have their share of crime, as is the case with major cities worldwide. By taking simple precautions such as not displaying wealth, avoiding certain areas at night, and being aware of your surroundings, risks can be considerably mitigated.

Kenya’s national parks and wildlife reserves, a magnet for nature and wildlife enthusiasts, are generally safe with proper guidance and sensible precautions. It’s always a good idea to stay informed about the latest travel advisories from trusted sources and adapt your plans accordingly.

II. Living in Kenya as a Digital Nomad

Climate

Kenya’s equatorial location bestows it with a tropical climate. But variations are profound due to differences in altitude. Coastal areas maintain a warm, humid temperament year-round, with temperatures oscillating between 22 and 30 degrees Celsius. Conversely, highlands are cooler and more temperate, registering average temperatures between 10 and 28 degrees Celsius. Rainfall in Kenya is split into two seasons: the long rains from March to June and the shorter rains from October to November.

Nature

Kenya is a diverse tapestry of natural beauty and wonder. The Great Rift Valley, a geological masterpiece that carves its way through the country, offers dramatic landscapes filled with escarpments, valleys, and sparkling soda lakes. Savannah regions, like the Maasai Mara, are the theatre of nature’s greatest shows. Here, the circle of life plays out in real-time against a backdrop of golden grasslands and acacia-studded horizons. The Great Migration, an annual spectacle where millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles traverse these plains, presents an unforgettable sight.

Venturing to Kenya’s coast, a contrasting but equally captivating natural beauty unfolds. Places like Mombasa and Diani boast pristine white sandy beaches lapped by the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Underwater, vibrant coral reefs teem with a kaleidoscope of marine life, offering excellent opportunities for diving and snorkeling.

Inland, the towering presence of Mount Kenya summons the adventurous spirit, serving as a rewarding challenge for mountaineers. The country’s lakes, including Victoria, Nakuru, and Naivasha, present yet another facet of Kenya’s natural diversity. These water bodies host a multitude of bird species and other wildlife, a treat for bird watchers and nature lovers.

Lifestyle

Kenya serves as a fascinating intersection where the beat of modernity and echoes of tradition converge. Nairobi, the bustling capital, presents an urban mosaic of experiences. Its lively markets are a treasure trove of local arts and crafts, its shopping malls cater to the most discerning tastes, and its culinary scene is a melting pot of local and international flavors.

As the sun dips below the horizon, Nairobi’s nightlife awakens. The city offers a wide array of entertainment options, from stylish rooftop lounges to vibrant nightclubs throbbing to the beats of Afro-pop and international tunes. Concerts and music festivals frequently dot the city’s calendar, showcasing the best of local and international talent.

Rural Kenya, by contrast, beats to the rhythm of traditional life. Here, community ties run deep, the agricultural cycle dictates the tempo of daily life, and local festivals and social gatherings are characterized by traditional music and dance.

In terms of cuisine, Kenya plates up a hearty mix of local staples and international influences. Dishes like ugali, sukuma wiki, and nyama choma provide a true taste of Kenya, while the coastal regions present a bounty of seafood, prepared with coconut and spices in the Swahili tradition. Indian influences are evident in city eateries with offerings of samosas, chapatis, and biryanis. Finally, a cup of Kenyan tea or coffee, both globally renowned, is the perfect way to round off a meal or simply to start your day.

Culture

Kenya is a thriving mosaic of over 40 distinct ethnic groups, each with its unique set of traditions, customs, and dialects. Notable among these are the Maasai, the red-cloaked pastoralists whose customs and way of life remain a living link to a past that reaches back to the cradle of humankind; the Kikuyu, historically known for their agricultural acumen; and the Luo, a community renowned for their storytelling and musical traditions.

The history of Kenya is a narrative written in stone, fossil, and artifact. Ruins of ancient Swahili city-states like Gede whisper tales of centuries-old civilizations. In Mombasa, Fort Jesus, a 16th-century Portuguese stronghold, tells tales of European powers that sought to control East Africa’s trade routes. The Turkana Basin, dubbed the cradle of humankind, holds clues to prehistoric human life, with archeological finds dating back millions of years.

Nairobi, the thriving capital, houses the National Museum, where Kenya’s past is neatly curated, and the Karen Blixen Museum, which presents insights into colonial history and the life of the famous Danish author of “Out of Africa”.

The array of local attractions reflect the country’s diverse aspects. Conservation centers like the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and the Giraffe Centre in Nairobi provide intimate experiences with Africa’s iconic fauna. The Maasai Market offers an explosion of color and a chance to haggle over handcrafted jewelry, fabrics, and souvenirs.

Language

Kenya’s linguistic landscape is as diverse as its cultural one. English and Swahili serve as the country’s official languages. English is prevalent in cities, major towns, business transactions, and is the medium of instruction in schools, making it quite easy for English-speaking visitors to navigate through Kenya.

Swahili, the national language, knits the nation together. A grasp of basic Swahili phrases can add to the depth of your interaction with the locals, opening doors to genuine connections and mutual respect. Beyond these, Kenya resonates with the melody of over 60 local languages, each adding a distinct note to the symphony of this linguistically rich nation.

III. Cities to Consider

Nairobi

As Kenya’s capital city and major hub, Nairobi marries urban sophistication with the wild allure of Africa. It’s a city of contrasts: gleaming skyscrapers co-exist with sprawling markets, while world-class restaurants offer dining experiences within view of rhinos and giraffes at the Nairobi National Park. Museums and art galleries reflect the city’s cultural depth, and the nightlife pulsates with the rhythm of local and international beats. Nairobi also serves as a springboard to other attractions in the country, making it an excellent base for further exploration.

Mombasa

Mombasa, the country’s oldest and second-largest city, sits pretty along the turquoise Indian Ocean. It’s a melting pot of cultures with Swahili, Arab, Persian, and European influences visible in its architecture, food, and way of life. The Old Town, with its narrow winding streets and old buildings, whispers tales of the past. Fort Jesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands as a sentinel of the city’s history. Mombasa’s beaches are picture-perfect, fringed with palm trees and lapped by warm, crystal-clear waters, making it an idyllic seaside destination. The city’s vibrant nightlife, characterized by beach parties and clubs, adds a dash of excitement to the Mombasa experience.

Nakuru

Nestled in the Great Rift Valley, Nakuru presents a refreshing blend of urban life and natural beauty. The city itself offers modern amenities and is famous for its vibrant street art. But the star attraction is Lake Nakuru, a soda lake nestled within a national park. The lake is a haven for birdwatchers, famed for its striking flocks of pink flamingos. The surrounding park shelters a wide variety of wildlife, including rhinos, lions, and leopards. Beyond the wildlife, the Menengai Crater, one of the world’s largest calderas, offers stunning panoramic views and hiking opportunities, adding to Nakuru’s appeal for outdoor enthusiasts.

IV. Off the Beaten Track

Lamu

Located on Kenya’s northern coast, Lamu is a blissfully quiet, historical gem. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, its Old Town is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa. Explore narrow labyrinthine streets, traditional Swahili houses, grand villas, and mosques, all on foot or donkey as there are no cars on the island. The tranquil beaches and slow pace of life make Lamu an idyllic retreat.

Kakamega Forest

Tucked away in western Kenya, Kakamega Forest is the only rainforest left in the country. As a remnant of the ancient Guineo-Congolian rainforest, it hosts an impressive array of birdlife and endemic insect and monkey species. A guided walk through this verdant forest will immerse you in a world far removed from the typical savannah landscapes of Kenya.

Loiyangalani

Situated on the southeastern coast of Lake Turkana, Loiyangalani is a small town with significant cultural interest. It serves as a meeting point for different ethnic groups, including the El Molo, Samburu, Turkana, and Rendille. Here you can explore the unique desert lake ecosystem and gain insights into the diverse cultures of Northern Kenya. The annual Lake Turkana Cultural Festival held in Loiyangalani, where tribes gather to celebrate their cultural heritage, is a vibrant event not to be missed.

Chyulu Hills

Nestled in the quiet splendor of southeastern Kenya, the Chyulu Hills provide an enticing retreat for digital nomads. Its vast grasslands, ancient craters, and dense forests offer an untamed backdrop to work and play. While less frequented than nearby tourist hotspots, this locale offers Wi-Fi enabled eco-lodges, enabling remote work amidst striking African landscapes. Whether working with views of Kilimanjaro or exploring the world’s longest lava tube, the Chyulu Hills offer a unique blend of connectivity and adventure.

Mount Elgon National Park

Straddling the border of Kenya and Uganda, Mount Elgon National Park is often overlooked for more famous parks. It offers uncrowded trekking routes to scale the slopes of Mount Elgon, a massive extinct volcano with the largest surface area of any extinct volcano in the world. Its caves and gorges, hot springs, and diverse wildlife make it an off-the-beaten-path adventure destination.

V. Visas

As of June 2023 there is no dedicated visa for digital nomads traveling to Kenya. However, there are several types of visas and permits that may be applicable depending on one’s circumstances. Here’s an overview:

Types of visas available for remote workers:

1. Tourist Visa: This visa is suitable for short-term visits and doesn’t allow you to work in Kenya. Most visitors use this for tourism, visiting family or friends, or short-term business meetings.
2. Business Visa: This visa allows multiple entries and is for people attending conferences, seminars, or business meetings. However, it does not permit gainful employment.
3. Work Permit (Class F): This permit is for individuals who intend to engage in specific trade, business, consultancy, or profession. It’s valid for two years and renewable. A digital nomad who owns their own business might qualify under this category.
4. Residence Permit (Class K): This is for individuals who have an assured income and will not accept paid employment of any kind. If your remote work situation guarantees a stable income, this permit could potentially be applicable.

Application process and necessary documentation:

For most visa types, the application process is online via the eCitizen portal. The general requirements for a visa application typically include:

1. Valid passport with at least two blank pages and valid for at least six months from the date of entry.
2. Recent passport-sized photo.
3. Completed application form.
4. Payment of visa fee.

For work and residence permits, the process is more involved and requires additional documentation, including:

1. Proof of sufficient financial resources.
2. Proof of professional qualifications and job offer (for work permits).
3. Detailed curriculum vitae.
4. Medical reports.
5. Police clearance.
6. Passport-sized photos.
7. Filled application forms.

The applications for these permits are also done online via the eFNS portal.

Remember, these guidelines are subject to change and may vary depending on the applicant’s nationality. Always refer to the official Kenyan immigration website or consulate in your home country for the most accurate and current details.

VI. Tips for a Smooth Landing

Accommodation

From bustling cities to quiet towns, Kenya offers a range of accommodations. In Nairobi and Mombasa, furnished apartments, guest houses, and co-living spaces are available for both short-term and long-term stays. Websites like Airbnb, Booking.com, and local platforms like BuyRentKenya can be helpful for finding a suitable place. It’s often recommended to book short-term accommodation initially, giving yourself time to familiarize with the area before committing to a long-term lease.

Finances

Opening a bank account in Kenya typically requires a residence permit, proof of address, and passport. Some banks may also require a minimum deposit. Equity Bank, Standard Chartered, and Barclays Bank are among the popular choices.

For shorter stays, international banking cards are widely accepted in cities, though it’s advisable to have some Kenyan Shillings for smaller establishments and rural areas. Mobile money, particularly M-Pesa, is ubiquitous in Kenya and can be linked to your local bank account or funded directly for seamless transactions.

Transport

Kenya has an array of transportation options. In cities, matatus (minibuses) and boda-bodas (motorcycle taxis) are common but can be chaotic. For comfort and convenience, taxi-hailing apps like Uber and Bolt operate in major cities. Car hire services are also available, though driving in Kenya may require an International Driving Permit. For long distances, there are domestic flights, trains, and long-distance bus services.

Customs

Kenyan culture is warm and welcoming, with a strong emphasis on respect and community. Learning a few Swahili greetings can go a long way in building rapport. Kenyans appreciate patience and politeness in interactions, and it’s common to engage in small talk before discussing business.

Handshakes are a common form of greeting, and it’s polite to return a greeting when offered. Public displays of affection are generally frowned upon, especially in rural areas. Dress conservatively, particularly when visiting religious sites or rural communities.

Kenyan time, or “African time”, is a concept where events often start later than scheduled, and patience is highly valued. It’s also important to note that Kenya has strict laws regarding the disrespect of national symbols and the President, and illegal drug use carries severe penalties. Always ensure you’re aware of and respect local laws and customs.

VII. Verdict

With an allure that spans from the expanse of the Maasai Mara to the pulse of Nairobi, Kenya presents an enticing offer to nomads seeking an intersection of nature, culture, and a lively urban environment. Here, snow-tipped mountains, sun-drenched savannahs, and tranquil beaches form the backdrop of an unmatched, diverse experience.

Nairobi, a city alive with the hum of innovation, forms a vibrant center, catering to the needs of those engaging with the digital world. Offering affordable living costs amidst a rich tapestry of cultural experiences, the city is a microcosm of the contrasting elements that define Kenya.

Yet, the experience of Kenya is not without its trials. Reliable internet, a lifeline for remote workers, can be elusive beyond the city borders. The cities, while energetic and full of life, grapple with issues of congestion and occasionally, safety. And for now, visa regulations may not be as accommodating for digital nomads as some other destinations.

But in the grand scheme, these challenges form an inextricable part of the experience that is Kenya. A vibrant cultural scene, and unique adventures – all these and more make Kenya an intriguing destination for those who seek to live and work away from the traditional confines, accepting and overcoming challenges as part of their unique journey.